Archive for category Tech

iPhone 4 : Loss of ambidexterity

Up till now, I’ve stayed away from the iPhone hoopla with a good reason – I have nothing new to contribute. My quoting (and possibly reinterpreting of) facts from people who’ve actually got their hands on the device, be it friends or writers from technology websites, is nothing short of a deception.

If you really must know all about the iPhone, and haven’t heard enough about it yet, I suggest you head over to my friend Pulkit Kaushik’s blog, enlisted under my blogroll as TheDolt.

The reason I decided to break my silence is simple – there’s an issue which has cropped up with iPhone 4. Apparently, due to the new design, with exposed metal bands on the sides of the phone doubling up as antennae, holding the phone in a way such that the lower left corner of the phone is covered by one’s hand severely hampers connectivity and reduces signal strength.

To read more about this issue, this links to a PCWorld article containing and unofficial test conducted by one of the columnists, and this links to a correspondence that Engadget had with Apple.

This is not a new problem with the iPhone, apparently it existed even in the old iPhone 3G and 3GS, and is even an issue with Google’s Nexus One. But since it’s come to be attention only recently, I’ll use this opportunity to voice my opinion.

Technically, there are several reasons why this is bad. Apart from the obvious results of dropped calls, reduced voice quality and reduced browsing speeds, the lower reception implies that the iPhone will try to boost signal strength. This will lead to the battery draining quicker than usual, and will also pose a potential health risk to users, as being consistently exposed to abnormal levels of radiation from cell phones is not a good idea.

Apart from the technical details, there’s also the issue of the stand that Apple has taken on this issue. The writing on the wall is very clear – hold your phone differently, or get a case. But this just got me wondering – we’re talking about an yearly update of one by one of the world’s most popular technology companies. I sincerely doubt that this design flaw had gone unnoticed during inception or testing. It’s the complacent stand that Apple took afterwards, willing to let the inferior product reach the market that worries me.

Consider another smartphone – I can only refer to the one in my possession with utmost authority, naturally – the Nokia 5230. The 5230 borders on the bottom end for smartphones. Yes, it is a derivative of the hugely successful 5800, but the phone’s utility is in no way hampered. Holding the phone in any orientation, or any grip does not significantly alter reception quality. Agreed, Nokia, in most of its manuals suggest that users not cover the upper back portion of the phone while making a call, that is a perfectly reasonable suggestion, as the natural grip for holding a phone is by the sides.

Which brings me back to the title of the post – a loss of ambidexterity. One reason why I’ve always admired iPod and the iPhone is the equal level of ease with which both right-handed as well as left-handed people can use them. Of course, the iPod Touch and iPhone could never pose such a problem, the other iPods, based on physical buttons could. But no, Apple’s design was such that the buttons were all centrally located, showing impartiality towards both camps. This was something I noticed, was a little celebrated fact. If you compare Apple’s PMPs with many of those in the market, you may find that the competitors often align the buttons along the right side of the device in order to include a landscape oriented display.

Even the same can be said about the iPod Touch and iPhone – orient them either 90 degrees clockwise or anti-clockwise, and the phone adapts. Apart from the physical volume buttons, which unfortunately, have to show a partiality towards one side, because they are located on the sides, there is little complaint in this department. Compare this with the Symbian 60 Version 5 operating system that is implemented on most of Nokia’s touchphones. At least on my phone, as well as the Nokia 5800, orienting the screen 90 degrees anti-clockwise does not auto-orient the screen. For some absurd reason, the accelerometer causes display reorientation only when its rotated anti-clockwise, something that comes more naturally to right-handed people, in my opinion, especially as the physical buttons then become positioned away from the fingers for left-handed people.

But with this new development, southpaws will be forced to either hold their iPhones in a different way, because naturally, the part of the palm near the thumb will naturally cover the lower left end of the iPhone 4. The only alternative will be purchasing a “bumper cover” from Apple, or one of the many other cases on sale for Apple products such as the iPhone. And this is despite the fact that Apple usually subtly hints that their products do not need cases or covers, which is another show of hypocrisy.

In essence, this is just a small niggle for Apple’s sales department, but for me, it’s left a somewhat lasting impression about the somewhat dictatorial corporation that is headquartered at Cupertino.

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Installing Rockbox on your iPod Nano 2G

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Reading the title, a couple of questions are bound to arise. I’ll tackle them one by one:

What’s Rockbox?

Well, Rockbox is an open-source replacement firmware for your digital audio player (DAP). It basically replaces the default interface and ‘OS’ that the DAP shipped with, and installs itself in its stead.

Why Rockbox?

Rockbox offers more functionality than the default OS ever can. You can install themes, plug-ins. As of now, Rockbox offers support for a total of about eighteen different codecs, depending on how you count them. More importantly, support for formats such as .ogg has been added, a feature that was sorely missed by some (not me). One other reason why many people go for Rockbox is because it allows you to tweak your settings beyond what the default Apple firmware could ever allow.

But perhaps one of the killer reasons why people go for Rockbox is because of the way it can unshackle your iPod from iTunes, thereby allowing you to retain your music player, but ditch the application. I’m a bit equivocal about iTunes, mainly because my opinion of it vacillates violently over a course of a few days at times.

Rockbox is also available for a variety of different DAPs, but the Nano 2G is the first Apple device to be added, which has an encrypted firmware. You can find the list of supported devices here.

Why Now? 

Okay, so the iPod Nano 2G may not be the latest thing to come out of Cupertino’s stables, but as it happens, it is the latest iPod to be added to the Rockbox family. The reason for this is very simple. The iPod 2G is unlike most iPod which preceded it: the firmware is encrypted. The Nano has a separate bootloader, which decrypts the firmware and loads it into the RAM. This had made it very difficult for developers to lay their hands analyse the actual code that helps run the Nano 2G. Fortunately, after discovering a loophole of sorts in the Notes application, the Rockbox Crew managed to dump the entire firmware onto a hard drive. After they dissected it, along with the bootloader, they were successfully able to release a version for the Nano 2G with a few modifications. But even so, I agree that the product is nearing the end of its life cycle. I’ve managed to prolong the battery life by carefully managing backlight settings and judicious use of the Hold switch. But even I’ll admit that it’s becoming a less interesting over the times (especially since I got my hands on my 5230). So this is an attempt to try out something new.

Installation

is really quite simple. I was done in about 5 minutes, including download time! First thing, you should click here to download the Rockbox release for iPod Nano 2G. Although an automatic installer is available for most devices, the Nano 2G is still classified as an Unstable Build, which has varied interpretations, from ‘there are a few minor niggles to iron out’ to ‘oh my GOD, the battery is going to explode’. I found no issues after installing it on my iPod.

Make sure that your Nano 2G has Disk Mode enabled i.e. it should turn up like a USB drive when you connect it to your computer. If that’s not the case, you should open iTunes, select your iPod from the left menu once it’s done detecting it, and select the appropriate checkbox.

Once you’re done with the download, extract the files in the ZIP archive to the root folder of the iPod. Don’t disturb the directory structure inside the .rockbox folder, you’ll only make things harder for yourself.

Once that’s done, just download the bootloader patcher. You need to run this once with your iPod connected to fix the default bootloader on your iPod to detect Rockbox as a firmware as well. Don’t worry, you can still access your old Apple firmware. You’ll have to enter i once your iPod is detected.

Once you’ve patched the bootloader, in my case the iPod restarted itself as soon as I disconnected the USB cable. You’ll be presented with the Apple logo, which means that it is hard resetting itself. Remember that when you switch off your iPod, by pressing the Play button for a few seconds, you’re actually only putting it into a sleep mode: the RAM still has the firmware loaded, which enables you to quickly resume playback.09062010theme

Rockbox is a bit different. It loads itself from the flash disk each time you switch on your iPod, which consequentially takes a little while. But it’s surprisingly quick when compared to how long the default firmware takes to load after a hard reset. One other thing to notice is that when you switch off your iPod in Rockbox, it really does switch off. There’s no sleep mode. Although I haven’t yet been able to benchmark the battery performance, I think there will be a marginal increase in battery life.

More importantly, you can dual-boot your iPod! When your iPod shows the Apple logo while booting, if your Hold switch is on, it will boot into the default firmware. In case it’s not, it loads Rockbox. If you want to switch from Apple to Rockbox, you’ll have to hard reset your iPod, by first switching Hold on, then off, followed by simultaneously pressing Menu and Select till the screen blanks out. It’s much simpler with Rockbox – it reboots each time you switch it on anyways.

There are some things which Rockbox permits me to do, which the default firmware doesn’t. For example:

  • I can adjust the brightness level on my Nano 2G, a feature which was added only in later iterations of the Nano.
  • Music transfer can be simplified. Rather than letting iTunes maintain a monopoly over your iPod, and maintaining absurd 4-character filenames instead of simple human-friendly ones, you can use another music player, like Windows Media Player, for example, to sync music to a sane Music folder in your iPod. Nevertheless, Rockbox is perfectly capable of reading the iTunes database on your iPod, and create a library out of that.
  • There are a couple of nifty features: a voice that can guide you through the menus (I haven’t really tried it yet), a couple of fresh audio settings that the old firmware didn’t allow, like resuming playback after your plug in your earphones. Currently, iPods are capable of pausing playback if the earphones are disconnected.
  • The plug-ins are fun, ranging from games to oscilloscopes, Rockbox has them all. There are a ton of them preloaded already, with the scope for more to be added, without needing to reinstall the entire firmware. Simply copy the stuff into the appropriate folder and voila!

But it’s not all good news actually:

  • Firstly, there’s one very important reason why I may not use Rockbox on a day-to-day basis. There is no support for ratings. One of the primary reasons I still use my iPod is because of the rating synchronisation it offers with iTunes. Any changes on the iPod are reflected on my ratings in my library, which is great, because it lets me rate my music on the move, or while reading the newspaper. And these ratings help build auto playlists in iTunes, which further decide what gets synced next. Indeed, by using a utility such as MusicBridge, I can maintain global ratings on my files, instead of in the iTunes database, which lets other media players, such as WMP read them and build its own auto playlists, which I can then sync with my phone. Rockbox does not offer me this functionality, so it’s utility for me is limited.
  • The plug-ins are great, but still remain a bit disconnected from the music. A few of them allow playback control from within the plug-in, but most require you to navigate back to the Now Playing screen to make changes, which can sometime be annoying, especially because I’ve water-damaged my Menu button.

So it’s really very simple. If you have no desire to maintain ratings for your music, you should switch to Rockbox. End of debate.

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Flashing the BIOS on an MSI motherboard

is widely known, at least my MSI enthusiasts and owners, as a downright pain in the behind.

Now that I’ve introduced the basic premise around which the premise revolves, a few terms should ideally be introduced to the uninitiated. You can find some background reading here. But that’s not enough. There’s more you need to know before you can go about flashing your BIOS.

As I mentioned in the linked post, the BIOS forms the very core of your computer. Look at this way, your programs and applications can tell your computer what you want and what to do, but ultimately, it is the BIOS which will make everything come together. It knows how to do stuff. It along with certain components like the northbridge and southbridge control the flow of data and instructions among RAM, processor, hard drive, GPU etc. So, it provides the essential base on which everything else operates. It may just be around 1MB, but it’s the most important MB of code in the entire computer. The BIOS usually resides on a ROM chip on your motherboard, one that may either fit into a socket, or one which is soldered onto the board itself.

The reason I’m going to such lengths to explain exactly what the BIOS is for is simple : If your OS goes, fine, you can reinstall it, but if you manage to corrupt, irrevocably, your BIOS, you’re in for a pretty bad time. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT flash your BIOS unless you’re absolutely certain about what you’re doing. You can definitely post comments for help, if you need any, but I won’t accept any responsibility for what end up doing.

One more thing, the reason why the term ‘flashing the BIOS’ is used is because the BIOS is on an EEPROM (Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory), and to erase its predecessor, EPROM (Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory) was erased by exposing it, or flashing, to ultra-violet light.

Anyway, there really is not need as of such to flash your BIOS, unless you’re experience some system crashes. Not OS crashes and applications hanging, that’s usually an OS problem or a virus or something. I’m talking about multiple BSODs (Blue Screen of Death). It’s a pseudo-technical term at best – whenever the OS encounters a fatal system error (i.e. one it cannot recover from), it gives a blue screen, detailing the error, usually concurrently dumping the physical memory for later debugging, and then reboots your PC for you. I’ve been having a few of them lately, so I was wondering if the BIOS had anything to do with it.

Now, on my old PC (Dick), the motherboard was an Asus A8N-E. And Asus provided a nifty little program which, if pointed to the correct BIOS file (which could be downloaded from the ASUS website) would flash the BIOS for you, from within the Windows environment. This is quite useful, especially if you’re not very experienced in these matters. The traditional way of flashing the BIOS is creating a bootable floppy disk with the BIOS file and a small application to flash the EEPROM.

07062010liveupdate Anyway, even MSI offers such a software. It’s called LiveUpdate, which, purportedly takes care of all my driver and BIOS updating needs. That’s just a bunch of lies, because the software consistently fails to detect the new version of the BIOS which is available for download from the MSI website. So I won’t even bother to provide a download link for that piece of shit software. Plus, even MSI veterans agree that even if you do manage to find your update on LiveUpdate, it’s best not to use LiveUpdate to flash your BIOS.

There are 2 alternatives : creating a bootable floppy, or creating a bootable USB drive. Since this is 2010, I’ll stick to the second option. First of all, you’ll need to download some software to help create a bootable USB drive. I suggest HP’s USB Disk Storage Format Tool. A mouthful indeed, but the utility weighs in under 2 MB. You can download it here, from PCWorld.

Once you’ve installed that, make sure you’ve got your BIOS at hand. I’ve got a MSI NF980-G65, so I go to the MSI Download Centre, search for my motherboard, and then find the latest BIOS update.

Another thing, since most PCs now don’t run an old MS-DOS based OS like Windows 98, you’ll need to download the MS-DOS boot files. You can download the Windows 98 SE boot files from here (courtesy AllBootDisks.com).

Once that’s done, use a decompression utility like WinRAR, found here, to decompress the .ISO file. There should be 24 files in the ISO. Make sure your extract the files to a directory with no other files in it.

07062010usbtool Once that’s done, start the USB Disk Storage Format Tool. If you haven’t plugged in a USB drive, all fields will be greyed out. Once you’ve plugged it in, it’ll show up under Devices. Leave the file system as FAT32, and make sure that the Create a DOS startup disk option is checked. For most people, the first option under it will be greyed out, because Windows Vista and Windows 7 don’t run on top of MS-DOS, unlike Windows 98. Instead, with the second sub-option selected, navigate to the folder where you extracted the ISO files. Click on Start, and wait for the formatting process to finish.

Once that’s done, navigate to the BIOS file which you downloaded off the MSI website. It’ll most likely be a ZIP file. There are 2 important files in it, AFUDxxxx.exe, where xxxx is a series of 4 digits, and AxxxxIMS.xxx, where the first set of x’s pertain to your motherboard, and the second set is the version of the BIOs. The first file is the Flash Utility, which does the actual flashing, whereas the second file is the actual BIOS file, which gets copied to the onboard ROM. Copy these 2 files to the root directory of the USB drive. Root means that it shouldn’t be in a subdirectory in the USB drive. Don’t be alarmed because you can’t see the ISO files, they’re hidden from view for the moment.

Now, you’re almost done. Reboot your PC, and if necessary, interrupt the boot sequence to select a boot device. The key to do so is displayed briefly during POST. Select the USB drive. Now, you’ll see a MS-DOS command prompt. Type in dir. That will display the list of all files (apart from the boot files). Next, type in AFUDxxxx AxxxxIMS.xxx, according to the files you have. Optionally, add /REBOOT  to the end of the command to restart your PC.

The flashing process won’t take long, and if nothing goes wrong, you’re BIOS will be successfully updated.

Things that can go wrong

  • Your electrical supply is disrupted. This could mean curtains for your PC, or just a simple matter of BIOS recovery. Since I’m can’t be bothered to detail the recovery process in this post, I suggest you use a UPS or something.
  • You get impatient, waiting for the utility to complete the flashing process, and restart your PC, in which case you are a retard.

That concludes a relatively long-winded post about something which pertains to a tiny percent of the world’s population, which is a subset of a tiny percent of computer enthusiasts anyways. Hope to get back to the real world sooner or later…

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Managing Memory on your Smartphone

Permit me to get a bit nostalgic first. There used to be a time, when Nokia 3310s ruled the roost. When mobile phones were exactly what they claimed to be i.e. a portable phone, with some texting facilities. And then somebody introduced the colour screen. And then a camera. A QWERTY keyboard appeared on the market for those upmarket businessmen. Soon, one thing led to another, and phone’s became much more than just mere phones.

So, now, we’ve got Symbian phones, running the S60 platform. Although a widely used platform, it’s still a bit kludgey, and could definitely do with some performance optimisation. But one of the big plus points for S60 is the number of applications available for it. So, if you’ve got a phone with a powerful enough processor and enough RAM, it can be like a small handheld computer, mainly because of S60′s native support for multi-tasking.

Now, thing is, I’ve noticed that over time, when you install stuff, and uninstall stuff, and surf the web, the phone memory tends to get a bit cluttered. Now, this is a problem for most people, even for me, with my 5230 with 88MB of internal memory. Only 59MB is actually available from the time you switch on the phone. Which can be a pain to manage sometimes.

Thankfully, there’s a fairly simple solution. Firstly, move all of your non-essential files to the memory card. This includes videos, photos and music. Also, open your inbox and delete any messages with attachments, such as MP3 songs you might have received over Bluetooth. Even after you save them to your memory card, the files will remain in your inbox and eat up the memory.

Next, open the phone’s menu, and navigate to File Manager. For S60v5 phones like the 5800XM and 5230, the path is Applications > Office > File Manager. Once here, click on Backup, which should be in the Options menu. This will create a backup of all your phone memory data on your memory card.

Now, reset your phone, by going to the keypad when in standby mode, and typing *#7370#. This will hard reset your phone and erase all data from your phone memory. Your memory card will remain untouched, but if it was password protected a while ago, you’ll need to remember that password to be able to use the memory card after formatting your phone.

Once you’re done resetting. Simply head over to the same place where you backed up, but this time, select Restore. You should select all the options, except Files, since you’ve already taken care of the files in the phone memory, by moving them to the memory card.

After this, you’ll find that somewhere around 50MB should be left. Now, proceed to reinstall your applications, but make sure you install them to the memory card, and not to the phone memory.

Apart from this, even formatting your memory card isn’t such a bad idea. Just make sure you’ve copied everything you need to your PC first, and only then proceed to format the card. Then, you can selectively copy stuff back.

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Why your Internet is sluggish right now

This is a sub-continent specific post. If your Internet connection has been acting unusually slow the past couple of days, and you reside in the Indian subcontinent and/or the Middle East, the reason is very simple. Thing is, if you rely on the Web for your news updates, and are unfamiliar with print media, you’re unlikely to have ever stumbled across the news.

News being that an undersea cable has been cut off the coast of Italy, which basically means that most Europe bound traffic is getting lost. Some US and local based sites, such as Facebook and Google remain unaffected, but otherwise, you’re in for a rough couple of days as they try and fix the cable.

By the way, the SEA-ME-WE 4 cable was cut a couple of weeks ago. I myself did not notice the sluggishness till today. Hopefully, stuff should clear up soon.

Till then, if you are unable to frequent your online haunts, I suggest you do something a bit more constructive than trying to refresh the page again and again, in the hope that things might take a turn for the better. They won’t.

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